May 15, 2024

Sri Lanka’s a true beauty

Chiara Di ASIA, TRAVEL Colombo, Ella, Galle, Kandy, Mirissa Beach, Negombo, Nuwara Eliya, Sigiriya, Sri Lanka, Wander, Yala National Park 0 Comments

Sri Lanka is a nature lover’s paradise and I recently enjoyed a wholesome two-week wander in this beautiful country.

There was everything from lush, green countryside, to mountains, tea plantations, hikes, safaris, beaches and more. I booked a G Adventures tour which made the trip very easy and not a lot of thinking on my end, though private drivers were also a popular way to get around. We had a great local guide Udi, an awesome bunch of fellow travellers and the wander kicked off in Colombo.

Colombo

The wander began as most would in the capital of Colombo where I had a day to myself before starting the tour. I experienced the city on a half day tuk tuk tour with Capital Tour which was a good introduction to the city and a balance of food, temples, sights and scenery. Everything from the colourful and intricate details of Kapithavathai Sivan Temple and Gangaramaya Temple where everything has been donated from other countries (and you need to enter with bare feet on rather hot concrete), to the mannequins of Old Town Hall, watching passengers exit the trains on the track at Colombo Fort Railway, the easily recognisable Lotus Tower and the red and white tiles of Red Mosque.

Then there was the excitement and colours of Pettah Market, the largest bazaar in Colombo selling fresh vegetables, dried seafood, spices, clothing, plastics and more, with people yelling and tuk tuks beeping. There were also some treats along the way – a cheese cutlet ball and manyokka chips with chilli salt (kind of like potato crisps). I also had a Zylen tea tasting and experienced my first Sri Lankan curry for lunch. The signature dish came with a fish curry, rice, beetroot, pumpkin, dalh and salad and was pretty consistent throughout the country. Just the right amount of spice too.

After I farewelled my driver, I walked to Gangaramaya Temple Chapter House as I was drawn to the beauty of it on the lake during my tuk tuk tour. The gold buddhas were real stand outs and it was definitely hot to walk around barefoot but well worth it. Being heckled by tuk tuk drivers the whole way added to the experience. Saying that, Uber and Pick Me tuk tuks were a great way to get around the major cities and were cheaper than negotiating with the drivers direct. There was an oversupply of tuk tuk drivers so they were constantly wanting your attention. It’s also worth noting there is also a tipping culture, with 10% the average for service.

Negombo

One hour north of Colombo is the fishing town of Negombo known for its fresh and dried fish market. On the way we had our first money exchange experience which was liken to the black market but where I received the best exchange rate. ATMs really do sting you with exchange rates and bank fees throughout Sri Lanka.

Back to the dried fish – the process involves cleaning, salting and drying out in the open sunlight for three-to-four days – real authentic! We also enjoyed a tugboat ride through Negombo Lagoon’s fishing villages stopping in a shallow area for a walk around and some tropical fruits. We were greeted by playful monkeys and colourful birds along the way. We were staying right on Negombo Beach which was a treat so I fit in a quick dip before the rain came on – the water was so warm and not as salty as home. I enjoyed a flavoursome Sri Lankan coconut prawn curry which was a little strange to be served with sliced toast but it worked.

Sigiriya

On the way to Sigiriya we visited Dambulla Cave Temple, which is 400 steps to the top . The temple has five caves with a collection of small and large buddhas and beautiful wall art. I received a blessing along the way from a chief person and they wrap a cotton bracelet around your wrist which stayed with me for most of the wander. We continued onto lunch at a local restaurant Lario where amongst Sri Lankan curry we tried a traditional hopper with coconut sambol – a Sri Lankan staple of shaved coconut, red onion, chilli and lime. It was nice to also run into an Italian lady running the restaurant to talk about the motherland.

One of my highlights of the entire trip was our afternoon elephant safari at Hurulu Eco Park, a 62,000 acre park known to have the highest concentration of elephants in Sri Lanka. The three-hour open-top Jeep experience for 22,000 rupiah per person was full of elephant encounters. The elephants were so curious, playful and affectionate – we witnessed so many sweet encounters between the elephants including the cutest three-week old baby.

We visited UNESCO World Heritage site Sigiriya Fortress for sunrise. It’s 1200 steps to the top – 350m above sea level – though the walk up to the top didn’t feel that bad and happened quite quickly. From the top, there’s beautiful views over the horizon and lots of different areas to explore, it just keeps going. The rock itself has lion paws and lion head carvings, cave entries, a mirror wall and graffiti art.

We explored the local Habarana village by tractor, then a canoe boat ride along a lake, which all got a little hot in the middle of the day. Our boat guide kindly made us necklaces and hats from water lilies. This was followed by a cooking demonstration of roti and coconut sambol using traditional instruments, from removing the outer layer of the coconut to carving out the coconut – I also had a turn to demonstrate and got to taste a sample. The experience ended with another Sri Lankan curry and rice display.

There were a lot of spas around our resort so it seemed like the perfect time to indulge in a traditional Athreya Ayurvedic massage. The treatment uses a special soothing oil – one for the body and one for the head and was the perfect blend of releasing tension and relaxation. The one-hour massage at Athreya Ayurvedic Centre began with a head massage and ended with a 20-minute sauna. It was delightful and very therapeutic.

Kandy

On the way to Kandy we stopped into the Ranweli Spice Garden in the central province of Sri Lanka, which we’re told is the best area for growing produce and spices. We explored the spice garden with a guide seeing everything from turmeric, vanilla bean, cacao, ginger, nutmeg and curry leaves to herbal balms, citronella and more. We then had a session on herbal medicines and tried a spiced tea and Ashwagandharishta – a herbal mixture that improves immunity. It was a vinegar-like taste. I experienced an Ayurvedic medicinal massage treatment in a chair covering the head, neck, shoulders and arms. There was a lot of pressure, but my body felt amazing after.

We enjoyed lunch at Sthree (meaning women), a G Adventures supported street cafe supporting disadvantaged groups and women into entrepreneurship. The café also has clothing, accessories and homewares made from women in local villages – there were some great accessories that came home with me! The cafe is open by reservation and batu moju, a traditional eggplant dish, is their signature.

Kandy, Sri Lanka’s second largest city, is a beautiful bustling city built around a picturesque lake. There we explored Temple of the Tooth where the tooth of a buddha is enshrined, walked around Kandy Lake sighting lots of bird and marine life and took in the views of Kandy Lookout Point. We were recommended Balaji Dosai for a Southern Indian dosa dinner sharing the cheese and onion dosa and masala dosa accompanied by potato curry, coconut curry and dahl curry. It was also the first city we tried to find nightlife and with the only pub in town called ‘The Pub’, there wasn’t much to it.

A night was spent at a nature resort in Digana, a village of Kandy. I had originally thought it was more of a home stay but this was much more luxe with air-conditioned rooms, a pool, restaurant and day spa. It was really peaceful and so nice to have some downtime and read my book. I also took the time to be offline for the day. We went for a walk through the village where life is very simple and people live off what they have in the village – we’re told by our guide that most Sri Lankan’s live a simple life. It seemed a little out of sorts staying in such a nice resort amongst the village.

We also got to take part in a cooking demonstration of three curries and I was in charge of the batu moji eggplant dish. There really are a lot of ingredients that go into a curry, this one had everything from red onion, garlic, tomatoes, pineapple, banana leaf, tomato sauce, curry powder, chilli powder, cinnamon and more!

Nuwara Eliya

On the way to Nuwara Eliya it was tea time, stopping into Rothschild Tea Estate where 3000 acres of tea is produced including black, silver, gold and green tea. We went on a factory tour, learnt the manufacturing process and did a tea tasting. It was a beautiful tea house with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the tea plantation.

Continuing around the mountainous roads we arrived in Nuwara Eliya – the highest elevation and coolest city of Sri Lanka which we were grateful for. It is a very colonial city with many beautiful British period buildings, manicured gardens, a race course and more. We went for a walk through town exploring Victoria Gardens where we were stopped for selfies, checked out the market stalls and stopped into ‘The Pub’ for a sunset drink. There was a really good food court here offering a mix of eastern and western cuisine which I was ready for – the Sri Lankan curry can become a bit repetitive.

From here, we hiked Horton Plains National Park with a transfer driver and trail guide costing 22,000 rupiah per person. Setting off at 5am, it was a 90-minute journey to the starting point between the dark drive up narrow streets, buying the entry ticket and arriving at the starting point within the park. The 9km World’s End Trail took us to Baker’s Falls, Greater World’s End and Mini World’s End and I would say it was similar to a grade 4 hike in Australia with unsealed paths, lots of rocks, a few steps and a 347m elevation. It took us around two and a half hours to complete at a good pace.

We travelled the famous scenic train from Nana-Oya train station to Ella which was a bucket-list experience for me and one of the reasons for my visit. We’re told by our guide Sri Lankan trains are always late and our experience was no different with our train due for departure at 2.30pm arriving at 3.15pm. Most of Sri Lanka’s trains still run on a manual system so at each station they have to hand over paperwork before continuing on. I travelled third class with another girl from the tour and the seating was booth style around a table which suited us and no air-conditioning which wasn’t required as the air was quite cool through the open windows. The journey itself felt like the longest train ride ever, taking over three-hours to travel 62km. But it was very picturesque scenes of the rolling hills and plantations and there were plenty of dreamy photo opportunities through the open doors. There were, however, a lot of people who set up camp in front of the doors for long periods which was quite inconsiderate.

Ella

Arriving into Ella on a Saturday evening, it was abuzz – finally a bit of action! We’re told it’s always been a backpacker town due to the homestay accommodation surrounding it. We stayed in the heart of town and enjoyed the ease of being able to walk everywhere – I really favour easily walkable cities. Ella’s main strip also has some great boutiques and souvenir shops to browse.

In Ella, we hiked Little Adam’s Peak – the trail started 2km from town and was then a 2km trail walk to the 300-plus stairs taking us up. From the peak you can see Ella Rock and the surrounding rolling hills. Around the trail there were additional activities including a zipline, scenic swing and Little Adam’s Resort where we enjoyed a post-hike beverage.

We also visited the famous Nine Arches Bridge – there was an option to walk up to the bridge from town or take a return tuk tuk for 3000 rupiah (paying the driver once you return). I joined two others in a tuk tuk – the temperature was far too hot in the afternoon for a walk. The tuk tuk definitely took longer than you would anticipate but it had to go around a mountain-like landscape on mostly unsealed road. The bridge was very beautiful amongst the tropical landscapes. The idea was to wait for the train to pass along the bridge, but we were there a little early for the planned 3.30pm train and that train was at least 30-minutes late so we didn’t wait around for it – after all, the day prior had enough train action for me.

There were a couple of local delicacies tried at 360 Ella – kotthu and roti. I had the egg kotthu – chopped up vegetables and roti with egg accompanied by a coconut and chilli sauce. On a separate occasion I had the cheese and vegetable roti which had curried potatoes and carrot and tasted similar to the Indian dosa in Kandy. I also tried Lumprais at Chill Café, advertised as a must-try Sri Lankan dish that can’t be found everywhere. It was rice, chicken curry, deep fried boiled egg and brinjal wrapped, steamed and served in banana leaf. It was quite an entrance with the server unwrapping it at the table and was a big serving size – I was very satisfied with my choice here!

It was also Ella where we had some entertaining night’s out, and happy hours, DJs and dance floors were happening.

Yala National Park

On the way to our overnight stay in Yala National Park we stopped by Ravana Waterfall cascading 25m, and the largest flying fox bat colony in Sri Lanka near Tissamaharama.

Packing an overnight bag, we stayed at Big Game Camp Yala in glamping style accommodation. We were escorted through the unsealed roads by safari cars which would later take us on our afternoon safari. The tents had fans to keep us cool overnight and were quite clean and still with no wind making it flap all night. I was also ecstatic to be in the single room for this stay as the bathroom wasn’t so private. The accommodation also offered a memorable bonfire dinner, post-safari tea and cake, a night walk, outdoor games and sports activities.

The three-hour safari took us to Safari Zone 5 where I was most hopeful of spotting leopards and sloth bears. We saw lots of bird life (kingfishers, eagles, peacocks, seagulls) and axis deers (the spotted Bambi type), a few elephants, buffaloes, monkeys and crocodiles. At the final minutes we were super lucky to spot the famed leopard (we’re told they are more visible after 5pm), and after almost scaring it off with a scream, it was pretty cool seeing it perch itself up on a rock and watch over us. After being so delighted with our elephant safari at Hurulu Eco Park, I was a little underwhelmed by this safari as the animals were more sparce and we didn’t see much of anything. I didn’t take up the optional early morning safari to Zone 1 the next day, but was told by those that did that the main differences were it was more jungle-like, the animals were very interactive in the waterway and they saw a boar.

Mirissa & Hiriketiya

A two-and-a-half-hour drive south from Yala and we were in the heart of one of Sri Lanka’s most famed beaches, Mirissa Beach. It was a buzzing beach town with beachfront restaurants and bars, a yoga and surf culture, healthy cafes, many happy hours and a spectacular thunder display one night. I really enjoyed the café culture here with the likes of Hey Mama and Shady Lane as it was a good blend of Sri Lankan and western dishes, which by this stage I was craving some variety. Petti Petti was also a picture-perfect dinner spot and No. 1 Dewmini Roti Shop had a great range of savoury and sweet roti. It was nice to read the story of their business on their menu from beginning the business as they couldn’t find jobs, to being forced to close twice when their landlords asked them to leave their properties and finally setting up the restaurant at their home thanks to the ideas of some regular visitors.

Mirissa days were filled with beach walks and dips, climbing the rugged rocks and paths of Parrot Rock and Coconut Tree Hill, everlasting sunset happy hours, picking fresh fish for dinner from the displays out the front of restaurants and another Arveydic massage at Secret Root Spa. The beach itself didn’t have the nicest water but we are pretty spoilt for our untouched beaches in Western Australia.

I booked a surf lesson with Chuty’s Surf School which took me to Weligama Beach as a beginner – a tuk tuk transporting me, my instructor and my board Combi style. After a few tries getting used to an 8-foot board I was pretty happy with my efforts of getting up on most occasions and was content with staying in the whitewash unlike my instructor who kept pushing me to the bigger waves. The one hour 15-minute private lesson was so reasonable at USD35. It was a nice touch to stop for a coconut water on the way back to Mirissa too.

From Mirissa I took a day trip to Hiriketiya Beach with one of the girls from the tour. I shared her taxi transfer there and took my own Uber back. The Uber was around 4000 rupiah which was half price of the pre-booked taxi service so definitely worthwhile if your timing is flexible. Hiriketiya was a much smaller and prettier cove-like beach lined with sunbeds, restaurants and surfboard hire. The beach felt like the main strip with only back streets leading towards it. The surf and yoga culture continued here as did the healthy café culture. I enjoyed a great iced coconut latte at Salt House and a tuna bowl and watermelon spritz at Taboo, as well as some beach and passionfruit mojito time.

Galle

On the way to Galle we enjoyed some time at the turquoise coloured Unawatuna Beach where I was surprised by the large turtles that reside there. They were really quite beautiful creatures gliding by and came quite close to shore likely due to being able to buy food to feed them. It was quite concerning to see some travellers touching them.

Sri Lanka’s fort city, Galle, was full of personality and home to the country’s international cricket ground. The fort itself was quite impressive and felt very historic. We were told the first fort was built by the Portuguese and then it was extended by the Dutch with all of the buildings made out of coral reef (destroying the reef of course). We arrived mid-afternoon and it was so hot that after a few minutes on the street we found our way into a café for a refreshing drink. As it cooled down we browsed the boutiques, galleries and street art and took a wander along the top of the fort to the delight of many school children. We enjoyed a sunset drink as the rains came in and said our tour goodbyes over a farewell dinner.

Sri Lanka really was a true beauty and ticked the nature list for me. Two-weeks was the perfect amount of time, it was the perfect itinerary touching all the heroes and we got so lucky to have mostly perfect weather, although very hot and sticky.

Next up I’m looking forward to a couple of girl’s trips to McLaren Vale and Fiji over the winter.

Until then…

LWL xxx