November 6, 2024

From the Pilbara’s reef to range 

Chiara Di TRAVEL, WESTERN AUSTRALIA Gorges, Karijini, Mackerel Islands, Pilbara, Wanderlust, Western Australia 0 Comments

I was very fortunate to host a dreamy work wander to the Mackerel Islands and Karijini National Park in Australia’s North West recently.

I was stoked for the opportunity – the Pilbara’s reef off Mackerel Islands being new to me, and the range of Karijini (Hamersley Range) being my most favourite, magical destination in Western Australia (WA). My international group were also stoked they would be seeing the ‘real Australia’… outback, red dirt and the flies that come with it.

We flew two hours from Perth to Onslow, a relaxing holiday town on the Pilbara coast. From Onslow we took the Mackerel Islands boat transfer 45-minutes to Thevenard Island which currently run at set times on Tuesdays and Saturdays. Thevenard is the only public island of the 10 islands that make up the Mackerel Islands – there’s one other that is privately inhabited.

What we arrived to was an oval sand island – mostly untouched, with self-contained beach shack cabin-style accommodation. It’s truly a place to disconnect and unwind with no wifi and limited service. There is a small general store on the island and on the first night the island resort offers a dinner under the stars experience, but otherwise you do need to fully cater for your group.

The dinner under the stars is a beautiful way to start your island experience with ferry lights above and picnic style share tables. A barbecue buffet menu is served with smoked mackerel on arrival and the crowd favourite pavlova for dessert – some went back for thirds and fourths. We were the only guests on the island at the time, but I can imagine it’s a great way to meet other guests and become like family with the staff.

We spent our arrival afternoon snorkelling at the nearby inner ‘home reef’. The reef had patches of coral varieties and colours and mostly small fish, similar to my Fiji experience, though I did spot a sea urchin. There were also complimentary kayaks and stand-up paddle boards for use. We went on a 4×4 safari along the island’s sandy perimetre to spot turtles and drive to the sunset deck, which is located at the other end of the island to the facilities. It was turtle mating season so we spotted a lot of that, as well as turtles gliding through the water popping their heads up to see what all the fuss was about.

An Indian Ocean sunset never gets old and that’s exactly what we did with a glass of vino in hand. After dinner we were also delighted with the phenomenon that is a ‘staircase to the moon’ which occurs when a full moon rises over the ocean two-to-three times a month (or over the mudflats in Broome). This was the last one of the season so we were extra lucky. The stars were also exceptional with almost no external lighting on the island.

The next morning we flew from Mackerel Islands back to Onslow with Ningaloo Aviation, based in Exmouth. This meant we weren’t bound by the return ferry times and could get on our way earlier. Then it was onto a Go West bus for our six-hour outback journey to Karijini National Park, home to many magical gorges.

It was on this journey most of the group experienced a long drop toilet for the first time – bemused by it they were, but also grateful to have facilities.

We had a lunch stop at Cheela Plains station stay, which offers accommodation and a café from April to October school holidays. They also have camp sites available during the season. It’s a great offering mid-way along the journey.

We arrived at Karijini Eco Retreat in time for a sunset walk to be mesmerised by Joffre Gorge. The Retreat provides eco glamping tents and cabins. The tents include an external bathroom or internal ensuite, twin or king bedding, a small fan, torches, beauty products and an esky. The three recently opened Luxury Eco Tents are the only ones with air-conditioning and an included mini bar. Breakfast is included in some room categories and is a continental buffet with the option to add an à la carte hot meal.

Dinners at the Retreat’s restaurant were a great way to reminisce on the day that was. It was nearly the end of the season so the restaurant was getting ready to pack down and it was early closures of 8.30pm. During the off season, visitors can self-cater and use the barbecue facilities themselves. Again, the evening skies dazzled the group.

We did a full day tour with Go West starting with an unsealed bumpy ride to Kalamina Gorge. Fly net on hand, we hiked through Kalamina Gorge to the second pool and a few of us went for a dip. We went to Karijini Visitor Centre which has a museum of the region’s natural and cultural history. We enjoyed lunch near Circular Pool and walked to the viewing platform while it was being prepared. The pool has been closed for a few years now due to unstable rocks. The day ended with refreshing swims in Fortescue Falls and Fern Pool at Dales Gorge, bringing back so many memories of my camping trip here. Go West provided pool noodles to enjoy the leisurely afternoon. The gorges are truly spectacular – billions of years old and so vast and epic!

On another half day tour with Go West, we explored the gorges around Oxer Lookout – Knox, Weano and Hancock. It was a last minute inclusion to challenge everyone to Kermits Pool in Hancock Gorge, a grade five hike but a fun one! This time I walked and swam through the two waterways leading to Kermits. Previously my friend and I scrambled along the side of the wall spider-style. There are definitely parts that are quite slippery including the final slim, slide-like section through to Kermits Pool. But we did it, so proud of my group and grateful for our patient guide Peter.

It was a shame we weren’t able to visit Hamersley Gorge – my favourite from previous – on this occasion due to unsafe waters but it just means I will have to return again if anyone’s keen.

From Karijini, it was a 90-minute drive to the closest airport, Paraburdoo, to catch our two-hour flight home to Perth. They generally operate in the evening to coincide with mining schedules.

This trip was the start to a busy month for me, with a back-to-back work trip to Sydney for an awards night and spending the last week in Melbourne for a few festivities which I will share soon.

Until then…

LWL xxx